STEAM AND VIKINGS

I never tire of rail travel. There’s always so much happening around you that, unlike driving, you have time to observe and to enjoy. Norwich to York is achieved in three easy hours. East Midland Trains Liverpool service deposits me on the opposite side of the platform of the Edinburgh-bound East Coast mainline. I’m sad I am only spending an hour on this one. The ambience in First Class is so tranquil, with an at-seat service of complimentary hot and cold drinks and sweet or savoury snacks. There’s even free Wi-Fi.

York is such a lovely station, with its lovely curve, that I linger before checking in to the Best Western Monkbar Hotel. (www.monkbarhotel.co.uk). The location couldn’t be better, within a few steps of York’s splendid city walls, the Minster and much more.

York is a very walkable City and I am able to enjoy part of the best-preserved town wall anywhere in the country on my way to the National Railway Museum (www.nrm.org.uk).

Unbelievably, entry to this wonderful Aladdin’s cave of railway memorabilia is absolutely free. It’s easy to spend three hours looking around. I adore the stunning streamlined lines of the Duchess of Hamilton, which used to break speed records up the West Coast line. The warehouse is crammed full of old dinner sets, station signs and a lovely jumble of assorted bric a brac.

They are well on the way to raising a quarter of a million pounds to fund the complete refurbishment of the Flying Scotsman. She should be back on mainline service next summer.

I am using the Yorkshire Pass (www.yorskhirepass.com) which gives me entry to 75 of the county’s attractions. But, at £50 for adults, I think I’d be hard pressed to get full value from it. York Minster costs £8, the Jorvik Centre is £8.95 and, if I’d used the little land-train between the Minster, which would have been £2.

I first visited the Jorvik Viking Centre soon after it opened. Then it involved large queues. On an autumn midweek afternoon, I had the place almost to myself.

Pottering around York’s little lanes is delightful. It’s a lovely city.

I’ve planned an early night. Unfortunately my room overlooks the hotel’s courtyard, where folk seem to be partying noisily. Not good.